“Cold Smoke” in the Chilcotins

Pat Mulrooney — Sun, 07 Jan 2007 23:53:35 -0500

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“Cold Smoke” in the Chilcotins

Back-Country Report by Pat Mulrooney

Location: Whitecap Alpine at McGillivray Pass in the Bendor Range, Coast Mountains, B.C.

Dates: Dec 30 to Jan 4 2007

Party: Zdenek Manhal, Mike Tigges, Jack MacDonald, Danielle Balik, Lee Lau, Sharon Bader, Louise, Charmain, Pat Mulrooney

Details: Ski Touring trip with Helicopter fly in access only.

Accommodations: McGillivray Pass Lodge

Hut Custodian: Ron Andrews (Owner and Caretaker)

There are a lot of great ways to kick off the New Year but I can’t think of a better way than surfing the bottomless blower POW of McGillivray Pass.

The first time I saw McGillivray Pass Lodge was during a “mission” and failed summit attempt of Whitecap Mountain in May of 2002 with friend Jack MacDonald. This was the first of what would be 5 trips in the area with intent to climb and ski and snowboard Whitecap Mountain. For some reason I was obsessed with Whitecap. It might have been due to the rumored 4100 ft ski run from 9595ft. We finally reached the summit after a ridiculous 18 hour mission in June of 2005. Jack mentioned that he heard of a private cabin on private land somewhere in McGillivray Pass. As we reached the highest point of McGillivray ridge where we had to drop down to Connel Creek it was obvious from the January like Blizzard we wouldn’t achieve our day’s objective. We decided to investigate the Pass and find the cabin. After a half hour or so there was a window in the storm and I caught a glimpse of a Canadian flag perched high on a pole next to what looked like a cabin of some sort. We took our skins off and descended a 1500 ft run down to the Pass. I couldn’t believe my eyes when we reached the cabin. McGillivray Pass Lodge. Photo: Pat Mulrooney

This was no ordinary mountain hut. It more closely resembled a fine log home with all the comforts and amenities you would find in a closer to sea level homestead. This combined with the unbelievable ski able terrain in the area made this a destination I had to visit in the winter!

Our crew for the trip was Danielle, Zdenek, Mike, Charmain, Jack, Louise, Lee and Sharon. This was a highly motivated group looking for as much vertical as our legs would allow. Perfect! Our start was early at the Pemberton airport on Dec 30. After boarding the A-Star we quickly emerged out of the Pemberton valley fog and 20 minutes later landed in the sunny, clear and cold McGillivray Pass. Approaching McGillivray Pass. Photo: Pat Mulrooney

Ron Andrews greeted us there as he had flown in early over Christmas to prepare the cabin for the season and dig it out from the epic early storms of 2006. His family finally convinced him to buy a snow blower and save his back from what would seem a never ending shoveling fest from the daily winter assaults. After a quick orientation of the hut and it’s amenities we were setting a skin track up the North facing slopes south of the lodge. Sharon, Mike and Jack above Connel creek. Photo: Pat Mulrooney

As we approached the alpine we decided it would be a good idea to have a closer look at the snow and collect our own data from this years snow pack. The 3.5 meter base at an elevation of 2200m provided positive results and it was game on. What next? A green flag! We spend the rest of the day hitting runs on both sides of the valley hunting for the best snow to better prepare us for the more epic days ahead. Danielle railing "Ronnies". Photo: Pat Mulrooney

When we reached the hut, Ron was quick to come to the door and greet us. At this point my expectations were far exceeded. I expected that the boarding and skiing would be nothing short of spectacular based on my knowledge of the terrain. Our first day’s turns were nothing short of amazing. Pat dropping in from Ronnies Col. Photo: Lee Lau

The heart and sole of McGillivray Pass lodge was what I didn’t expect. Once inside the lodge, one easily forgets that you’re in fact sitting at 1860m, high in the coast mountains of B.C. When you start to make your way around the lodge you immediately get a feel for the history and heritage of the Pass and the Andrews family. Their passion for the mountains and skiing is what makes this place so incredible! Jack tearing the slope a new one! Photo: Pat Mulrooney

The history of McGillivray Pass and its Lodge dates back to the late 1950’s when an adventuresome Austrian couple Helmet and Christa Weinhold discovered the area and it’s exceptional back-country skiing opportunities. Tragically in 1965 the couple was struck and killed by an avalanche in the area. Additional explorations led another group of enthusiasts to apply for land use and erect a building. Once approved by the Government of Canada in 1972 the log cabin was built in the remote location of McGillivray Pass and appropriately entitled the ‘McGillivray Pass Lodge’. Ron Andrews heard rumors about this fabulous place in the late 1970’s and decided to buy shares in the property. Today, and for the past 20 years, the Andrews family has called the McGillivray Pass Lodge and WhiteCap Alpine their “winter home”. Touring and hiking together, their family has built a rich history in these mountains. Lars Andrews, Ron’s son is the head guide for Whitecap Alpine. In fact he grew up Skiing in McGillivray Pass and as a result, progressed to becoming one of Canada’s most well known and respected all mountain guides with full ACMG and UIAGM certification. Lee Lau in "Tombstone Gully" with 50 fresh! Photo: Pat Mulrooney

The next 4 days were filled with incredible mountain adventures and deep POW. We skied every aspect possible deep in the trees and down steep alpine bowls from high cols. We encountered a family of 4 mountain goats perched high on an un-named peak and even saw a Wolverine following a rabbit trail. We awoke one day with 40cms of fresh snow and 30 more during the day. Mike getting Puked on! Photo: Pat Mulrooney

The evenings were spent with company of great friends and endless conversations with Ron about the mountains and all the different things to do in them. Be warned that if you mention a route up any mountain anywhere in the world there’s a good chance Ron Andrews has seen it. Ron Andrews is an authentic and genuine “Mountain man”. His love and passion for both the mountains and skiing is unparalleled. We ate elaborate meals cooked up in hopes of trying to out-do the meal from the night before. I should also mention that Guinness tastes better at 1860m than anywhere else. Danielle choking in the "smoke"! Photo: Pat Mulrooney

I recommend this place for any powder hungry skier or boarder. With over 8500 hectares of Alpine peaks, Glaciers, Glades and Trees there isn’t enough time in a winter season to hit all the lines. They refer to the snow on the website as “COLD SMOKE” as it falls on drier east side of the Coast Mountains. Custom trips and arrangements can be made by contacting Lars Andrews at info@whitecapalpine.ca or 1-888-863-9757 or (604) 862-9757. All the info is available at www.whitecapalpine.ca.

Check out all the photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/patmulrooney/sets/72157594465621191/

Pat Mulrooney, Jan 2007

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“Cold Smoke” in the Chilcotins