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Europe Stop #3 - Engelberg, Switzerland

J Dogg — Tue, 31 May 2005 00:00:00 -0400

Rating

What do proper catholic schoolgirls, 7-11, death, and Engelberg, Switzerland have in common? Well not much, but they all have something to do with heaven... if you include rhyming. Heaven has always sounded pretty awesome, so we at doglotion.com were keen to get a taste of it. Death didn't sound very fun, convenient stores are a dime a dozen, and there's already plenty of websites featuring catholic schoolgirls, uh, so we're told. So with Engelberg Titlis ski resort boasting the motto "It's Heaven", it was an obvious stop on our Europe Tour.

Directly translating to 'Angel Mountain', Engelberg started as a quiet monastery way back in 1120. Those monks sure know how to pick a good location, and had the valley to themselves for a good 700 years. Eventually the outside world caught on to their secret, and the tourist potential grew. Ski lifts were built there in the early 1900's, so the 'Mountain' part of Angel Mountain could finally be enjoyed. Rotating cable-car anyone?

Martin Jonassen trying his best to track out the resort in mid winter. Photo: Johan Hellman

Skip ahead a century, and Engelberg has just burst onto the freeskiing scene as a new big mountain mecca, and for good reason. With cliff walls of any size stretching in every direction, it's a meat-chucker's paradise. In addition to the steady crew of Swedes who migrate south to Engelberg each winter, the resort has become a new bombing range for film crews and pro-skiers from every corner of the globe. And for those who really like airtime, there's so many huge cliffs that Shane McConkey and friends can do ski base-jumping laps in the middle of the resort! Just one more reason to never follow tracks in Europe.

Kristijan Thorstensen probably smiling, if we could see his face. Photo: Johan Hellman

Daniel Furberg gettin' the goods before we arrive. Photo: Johan Hellman

Somebody in the monastery must have been very good this year, as local shredders were skiing deep fresh powder all season long. We on the other hand forgot to say our prayers, and rolled into town just after the wintery madness had ended. Meeting up with Swedish imports Christian Bjork and Daniel Furberg, we once again began a week of 'shoulda been here last week' tales that left us hungry for more. From lines like "last week you couldn't even see those park benches" to "Jamie Pierre jumped that big one, that huge one, and that even huger one", we knew it was a good year to have called Engelberg your home.

Skier: Sebastian Percival. Photo: Johan Hellman

But even in the wake of the big springtime melt, we still had some spring freshies in the forecast and some epic skiing ahead. It was still winter up at the 3000+ meter peak of Titlis, yielding 1200 meters of leg-burning fresh lines to mid mountain before the slush kicked in. And now that the resort wasn't littered with chest deep powder stashes, the Swedes finally took the chance to hike and explore Engelberg's more obscure terrain. Short traverses and knife edge walks led to some pretty sweet stashes, but the real gem was still to come: the Galtenberg couloir.

Jamie Bond above the Galtenberg, wondering why there's nothing between him and the village, 7000ft below.

Dropping in off the 10,623 ft summit of Titlis, the line bombs down a wide open powder field hanging above a massive cliff wall, before skirting the cliff and weaving into the Galtenberg couloir. From there you pinball your way down a few thousand more feet of ominous cliff walls before being spat out into a farmer's field, over 7000 feet below your start point. And if that ain't good enough, a walk to the nearest street found us sipping beers at a small restaurant before the next bus whipped us back to town, and 2-for-1 beers at the Yucatan Bar ensued once again.

Does it get any better than that? Well, apparently it was better all season long, but we weren't complaining. While the 4000 feet of unremitting pow runs on the 'Laub' would have been incredible this season, the 180ft cliff drops can wait untill we return next year. After all, death still doesn't sound very fun, no matter how many schoolgirls or Slurpees we might find in heaven.

Jamie Bond wishing he'd know about this cliff while he was above it.

This was 7000ft of blessed blower powder, shortly before us sinners arrived.

Mathieu Miller discvers the perks of spring skiing.

DETAILS

Engelberg Titlis ski resort is in central Switzerland, an easy train ride from Zurich, via Luzerne. If this season was anything like the years to come, you won't want to miss this spot.

For more info, visit their website at www.engelberg.ch. All the Swedes and anyone on a budget will stay at the Hotel Bellevue. It's located right across from the train station, and has cheap rates (for Switzerland) and includes breakfast.

For 2-for-1 apres, the Yucatan is on the main floor of the Hotel Bellevue, and the Eden Bar is the other hot spot across the street. Doglotion

Skiers: Jamie Bond, Andre Charland, Mathieu Miller, Les Manley

Photographers: Andre Charland, Johan Hellman. For more of Johan's photos, visit his site at www.johanhellman.com

Locals logged so much airtime this winter that Christian Bjork doesn't even care if there's a landing patch below the clouds. Photo: Johan Hellman

Europe Stop #2 - Blingin' in Lech

J Dogg — Mon, 23 May 2005 00:00:00 -0400

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With rumors of Aspen-esque cougars, rampant fur coats and Royal Family sightings, how could we miss a chance to visit this European utopia known to mortals as Lech am Arlberg. Originally one of the poorest villages in Austria, Lech was an isolated cattle and dairy farming town with very little connection to nearby valleys.

But in the early 1900's they built a mountain road into Lech, some wise guy finally looked up and saw how awesome the mountains were, and skiing started booming. It has since grown to an elite and well-known resort for those privileged enough to visit. There's even a saying that goes: "How do you become a millionaire in Lech? You go into a shop as a billionaire and come out a millionaire". But we knew it was the skiing that got it all started, so we threw on our invisible fur coats and went to check it out for a day.

Just around the corner from St Anton, we knew we'd be skiing the same spring schmooo we'd been shredding all week, but I had my eyes pealed for future potential. Sam 'Chief' O'Keeffe and Will 'Pissy Knickers' Hoddell were my tour guides once again, and once again they could throw a stick in any direction to point out lines we could be skiing only 2 weeks earlier; lines we will be skiing when I return.

It soon became obvious why the locals hadn't chosen dairy farming as their only pastime, no matter how much anyone likes goat cheese. Apparently skiers weren't the only ones looking up. After a full day of touring Lech's potential, we headed down to check out Lech's other less-expected asset; the terrain park. It's no Super Park 6, but finding a terrain park at any big mountain Euro resort ain't easy. And isn't the land of shopping and fur coats the last place you'd expect to find one? Think again, it's the perfect match.

What better a place to throw on your fur collared puffy jacket and gold chains, walking around like you own the place? They've been doing it for half a century before Tanner Hall or twin tips even existed. And it shows, as their well-shaped tabletops, spines, and kinked and curved rails make for a pretty killer spring session. After all, you know that lonely zipper on your jacket is begging for you to zip the fake fur collar back on, just this once.

Sam O'Keeffe corked 3.

Next Stop: Engelberg, Switzerland - Where Angels Roam

DETAILS

Lech Am Arlberg is 100km from Innsbruck , 200km from Zurich, and 250km from Munich. It's part of the same network of lifts as St Anton, St Christophe, Zurs, and the other nearby spots, all together forming a huge ski area that you shouldn't miss on your next Euro trip.

The area got pounded with snow in '05 while many other European resorts suffered, and it's consistently one of the snowiest valleys in the alps. Web: www.lech-zuers.at for more info.

Europe Stop #1 - St Anton

J Dogg — Thu, 12 May 2005 00:00:00 -0400

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They say the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence. But what I wanted to know was why there was any grass at all? Grass skiing has it's moments, don't get me wrong, but a whole winter of it leaves a bit to be desired. Watching the reports of big winter storms bashing Austria and North East Switzerland was tough to cope with. Then as the stories and photos of deeeeep pow came rolling in, it was time to get over there and see for ourselves.

As I rolled out of Whistler, helicopters and dump trucks continued their desperate attempt to keep every last bit of snow on the runs. Yet I had a creepy suspicion it was all a big joke on me, and my departure was the punch line. Flying through Toronto, flights were delayed by the flash snowfall that hit upon arrival, hmmmm. Arriving in Europe, out came the down jacket and everything seemed wintery again for about 24 hours, until I switched to shorts and a t-shirt. Getting fishier.

That very day, March 16, the beefy winter storm that blessed Europe for 2 months just picked up and left, heading straight for Whistler. I didn't know it just yet, but for the next 3 weeks I'd be strolling through the Alps in shorts and flip-flops while Whistler enjoyed 10 feet of fluffy white stuff.

Though a month in Europe wasn't going to waste, oh no. It had just begun, first stop: St Anton am Arlberg, Austria. Fresh off the train I tracked down some old friends who I knew would show me how it's done in St Anton, both on and off the hill. Sam 'Chief' O'Keeffe, 'Lloydo' Munjee, and Will 'Pissy Knickers' Hoddell have been milking St Anton for all it's worth the past few seasons, and this winter was no exception. It wasn't long before the 'shoulda been here last week' stories started coming out, and I did my best to contain the drool.

Skier Lloyd Munjee. Photo: Richard McGibbon

Not far from the Swiss border, St Anton was smack in the heart of the epic winter storms that hovered over Europe in the months before my trip. Seasoners weren't even bothering to explore the expanse of terrain while the snow came pounding down, they just sussed out their daily powder stash and went for it. Lower mountain runs at St Anton, St Cristoph and Stuben hoarded pow stashes that held up all day long, well out of harms way from the sketchy snow pack lurking in the alpine.

Photo: Richard McGibbon

Now up on the hill in baking late March sunshine, that sketchy snow pack had called it quits for the year, with big wet slabs sliding on dirt and grass in every direction. Not a good week for off-piste skiing, and oh what a tease it was. While we sloppy slush carved our way down every marked run we could find, dodging gold one-piece suits as we went, the stories of the past month came out at every new corner. I pretty much stood there jaw-to-the-ground while the boys pointed out huge lines in every direction, as far as I could see, all lift-accessible. With 270 km's of on-piste runs, you can imagine how far the real goods stretched for, all connected with 83 trams, chairs, and a few steps across a street or two.

Where you'd be on a good day at Rendl. Photo: Richard McGibbon

Finger Chutes on a good day. Photo: Richard McGibbon.

A better view of the terrain in St Anton. Photo: Richard McGibbon

Lucky for me, daydreaming about the weeks I missed wasn't the only thing St Anton had going for it. As we slow dog noodled to the valley each afternoon, the thumping bass of German techno revealed St Anton's other source of infamy... apres-ski like no other resort knows how.

While skiers around the world casually sip beers on a patio, Austrian and German tourists flock to St Anton without even checking the forecast, ready to party like none other. They don't sit around waiting for full moon parties, concerts or raves like other sissy cultures. It's on, every day, right after skiing until they pass-out or get sent home. No time for siestas, dinner can wait till tomorrow, and the kids can put themselves to bed or come with. That kind of apres.

Lounging at Steps Bar in the sun seemed innocent enough, but table dancing and pounding John Denver techno remixes somehow lured us to the Mooserwirt in no time. Serving more beer than any other bar in Austria (in half the time), the Mooserwirt has two full time staff switching kegs in the basement, all day long. Vodka flows from fountain taps while grannies in all-white sway on tables to live folk songs backed with dance beats. And just when the madness is winding down, they close the bar and send hundreds of drunken skiers to perilously navigate the last stretch of vertical to the village. Think Chinese downhill on refrozen crud and grass patches with oblivious drunk competitors... in the dark. Sounds like a good idea for Doglotion's next competition, eh? Maybe the grass is greener after all. With local races like this, you can imagine the apres ski out.

Photo: TVB St Anton Am Arlberg.

Next Stop: Lech am Arlberg, Austria. Check back soon.

DETAILS

St Anton Am Arlberg is 100km from Innsbruck , 200km from Zurich, and 250km from Munich. Heck, it's all close, get yourself to Europe and hop on a train to St Anton. The area is huge and it's packed with big mountain Euro-style terrain, all inter-connected with St Christoph, Stuben, as well as Zurs and Lech if you tour a bit. Word on the street is it's one of the best pow stashes in the Alpes, this past winter included.

Web: www.stantonamarlberg.com for more info.

Krazy Kangaroo and Moosewirt are hosts to the silliest apres sessions on the planet. Best grub in town is at Pomadoro's, mmmmm. And it's right beside the Funky Chicken, the place to be when the sun goes down (if you're not still rockin' at apres).

Qualifier - 2005 Freeskiing Championships at Kirkwood

J Dogg — Mon, 18 Apr 2005 00:00:00 -0400

Rating

BY HOLLY WALKER

As snow and wind pounded Kirkwood, road closures and chair wind holds may have ensued but skiers still began to arrive in numbers. Flights from Europe, buses from Reno, cars from Canada... The slew came despite weather, ready to compete in the annual big mountain competition, locally known as the "Extremes."

The North American Freeskiing Championships at Kirkwood is the final stop on the IFSA North America and World Tours, so competitors showed up early to inspect. On Wednesday a snowstorm pounded the resort, closing the upper chairs and Vista venue. So posses formed and pow skiing proceeded on Chair 6. The next morning the sun paid us a visit and inspection was on everyone's mind. The MSI crew was busy at work registering athletes but used announcer Dak's birthday as an opportunity to unwind at Bub's bar later. Happy Birthday Dak!

DAY #1: VISTA Final North America Tour Stop and World Tour Qualifier

Lines were dialed and jumps built by skiers and snowboarders alike. After a short hike up the ridge to the venue Vista, the knuckle draggers strapped on their gear to kick off the competition. The snowboarder runs of the day went to Paul Snowdy of Tahoe City and Katie Weinner of Carnelian Bay.

A field of 64 men skiers followed next, all battling for coveted spots in the World Tour qualifier. Gunnar Newquist's line set the standard early with fast airs including the waterfall gap. Whistler local Dave Treadway stomped big airs but not as big as his travel buddy Ryan Bougie! Ryan, one of the last to go, sent it of the top, made one turn, aired the biggest cliff of the day, turned again and straight lined it into the finish and first place. Second place went to Kirkwood local boy Josh Daiek who dominated the venue he had been practicing on-hill and in his mind for weeks. 36 men made the cut, including the one and only telemarker Doug Severn of South Lake. The first to be cut was Whistler rider Jay Johnston. When I asked him how he felt about the cut off, he told me that "back flips don't win comps" but what a sweet back flip it was!

Last but not least it was the females turn tear up Vista. Canadian Dana Carmichael dropped in first and skied a technical far right line that placed second. The fluid line of the day goes to Alaina Huestis of Snowbird who made baby pink look badass. The GNAR GNAR award goes to Erin Boucher who aired a step up into rocks!! We hope you are okay Erin! Props also goes to Claire Smallwood of Santa Fe for a huge air off the top followed by a tumble that didn't stop her from finishing. Lastly, first place went to Jessica McMillan who charged the venue with skiercross style and speed.

Look out, because this isn't the last you'll hear of Jess. The Amstel Light flowed and the awards followed but Ryan Bougie was nowhere to be found. Results were distributed and those with smiles headed over to the Red Cliffs Lodge to register and join the big kids of the World Tour. Start times were discussed and maps of the next day's venue passed out. Everyone would get a one-time inspection of the permanent closure "The Cirque" in the morning.

Women's podium

Men's podium, artisitc rendition of Bougie.

Women's results

Men's results

To Continue to World Tour Day 1: CLICK HERE>

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Holly Walker is a freeskier who enjoys writing, travelling, helping friends with projects and the occassional game of ping pong. She is sponsored by Smith, Giro, Gordini Gloves and Dynastar/Lange/Look.