We're standing atop a 3000+ meter peak that we don't know the name of, ready to drop into another few thousand feet of north facing righteousness. Jump back 24 hours and my ski partner is charging head to head with 5 skiers, mach speed down a steep off-piste bowl of choppy snow, chutes, and scattered cliffs, with only 5 flags to guide them for 4.6km and 900 vertical meters.

Jump back 12 hours further, and we're kicking pebbles in the dark plaza of the Andermatt train station now closed for the night, taking guesses on which way to drag our legion of heavy bags in search of a cheap hotel. Easily the most random stop on our Switzerland tour, we'd hopped on a train earlier that day, not really knowing what we'd find in Andermatt, or why we had come.

Whether it was the tales of big north facing slopes or the Swedish girls who said they'd likely be in town, there was reason enough to take a closer look. Splitting up the group we take different paths to town, exploiting our walkie-talkie's to barter with hoteliers as we go. There's nothing like yelling "but the hotel I'm at is cheaper" over a crackly radio to get hotels lowballing each other's prices... might have to use that trick more often.

After settling in we head to the only bar with signs of life, where a jubilant crew of Swedes is gathered for some drinks before the next day's Wild Mountain Race. Did somebody say Wild Mountain Race? Back to the future, Mathieu is bombing towards the end of his leg burning derby run when a potential shortcut hangs him up on an icy cliff band. To spare welding his knees to his jaw, he opts to step back around and trail his weary opponents to the finish.

Succeeding in living up to it's name, the annual spring event is part of the King of the Mountain series of ski & snowboard events in Switzerland, including a big mountain competition and plans for further expansion of the series. In true wild mountain style, the race isn't over at the finish line. Racers have the chance to tame a mechanical bull in the event corral, subtracting their bull riding time from their race time for the overall title! If a rodeo place like Calgary gets another Olympics, imagine the potential...

While you're imagining Winter Stampede 2006, we're pondering life in a chicken pen as we head up the crowded tram to Gemsstock's precarious peak. When the feathers settle most skiers follow the well-engineered snow track that makes intermediate skiing from this lift possible, while we spy untracked lines on the ridges on both sides.

Short traverses lead us to steep, cliffed-out faces with a season of entertainment packed into one afternoon. Back to the future part 2, atop one of many 3000+ meter peaks in sight, we're exploring Andermatt's real potential; the backcountry. The Gemsstock resort in Andermatt has 13 lifts, but the main trams that whisk you from bottom to top are all you need for a lifetime of distraction.

Assessing a stable snow pack, our 2nd and sadly final day sees us skinning north out of the resort area towards any number of enticing, steep peaks to relish along the way. We sampled 4 or 5 surprisingly good lines for April standards before meandering down to a highway-pass traverse and finally some terraced yard hopping down to a nearby town. While sipping apres beers in a sunny restaurant courtyard, the sun's early exit behind the massive peaks above us is all we need to confirm our reasons for coming... and for returning.

DETAILS

Gemsstock ski resort is located in the small, cute town of Andermatt, Switzerland. It boasts 1527 vertical meters of mostly advanced terrain, and incredible backcountry access.

Find out more at the Andertmatt website. The King of the Mountain series hopes to have even more events for 2006. Check them out at www.kingofthemountain.ch